'In this Series we look at the titans of American fashion. The taste makers whose designs have intrinsically connected us to deeper elements of the American experience. Across the decades, American designers have sought to deliver a unique voice to the world of fashion; bringing their perspective to an ever evolving nation and shaping the look of a country, as it passes through political and social upheaval and onto a digital revolution. American Fashion as we know it today, stems from the early settlers; colonists from Europe, whom brought with them the current dress from their native homes. Once prosperity struck the colonies, fashion moved away from practicality towards the decorative and clothing was used as a means of wealth distinction. These early European influences dampened with the weight of the revolution. With patriots calling out for a distinctly American style, women began making their own materials and wearing home made clothes was now considered a political statement, rather than a reflection of ones ability to buy. In the early 1850s, a mass market of middle-class consumers emerged with industrialisation. Brooks Brothers was among the first companies to serve this market, having begun in 1818 as a tailorshop and growing to 75 tailors and 1,500 manufacturing employees by 1857. The mid-19th century “gold rush” had an even greater effect on the US fashion system. Mr. Levi-Strauss realised that the gold prospectors would need tents, and ordered a special resilient fabric from France to serve this market demand. The fabric was called serge de Nîmes (serge, from the French city Nîmes), which we now know as denim. In addition to using this fabric for tents, Levi-Strauss recognised that it could easily be transformed into utilitarian work trousers. American jeans were thereby born, and the development of the US fashion manufacturing system was well underway. Alongside the invention of the sewing machine for industrial use by Isaac Singer, the US manufacturing industry was fully supplied with a growing immigrant labour force. However, the real key to success in this mixture was the alignment of distribution with production. Department stores and specialty stores began to focus more retail space and marketing efforts towards clothing. This alignment allowed the US fashion industry to move beyond workwear and menswear through superior production methods integrated with distribution, and a strong market orientation. The 19th Century waved in new era of American ideas, which aimed to throw off class distinctions and promote religious freedom. Whilst style remained important and refinement still referred to the level of one’s wealth, over the top frivolity was now frowned upon and social upheaval continued to impact the fashion climate. The rise of the antislavery movement for instance, brought forth debate around women’s dress reform, by women who saw clothing as a form of oppression to secure their role in society. The bloomer outfit was developed as a response for the need for more comfortable and functional clothing. Despite moral push back, it was a stepping stone for the collective conscience, pushing the needle forward on women’s rights and cultural perceptions. By the turn of the 20th Century, the 1900’s was on the brink of an industrial revolution, with an increase of migrants and urban living. Innovations to women’s undergarments, allowed for greater freedoms and abilities for dressing unassisted. So women began to invest in fashion at a greater rate, changing their outfits several times a day. But this excess was restrained with the breakout of the first World War. Women stepped up to the war effort by taking over the men’s roles and utility took priority over precedence, with women now able to wear tailored suits for the first time in their history. After the war, women went back to their regular duties and prohibition began. ART DIRECTION PAUL G ROBERTS WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED JESS BREGENHOJ NARRATION PAUL G ROBERTS EDITED JAKE BUGEJA'
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